Ada Abroad: Living and Working in Germany

An online journal recording two years spent as a Fulbright/Pedagogical Exchange Service Teaching Assistant at secondary schools in Germany. (2003-2004 I was in a village near Bautzen; 2004-2005 I will be in Nordrhein-Westfalen.)

Location: Münster, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany

I'm an American living in Germany, working as a foreign language assistant at a secondary school. Future plans: getting my Ph.D. (probably in Germanic Linguistics), becoming a professor, living an ethical and meaningful life.

Tuesday, January 17, 2006

My Merry Weihnachten

As I mentioned in my last 2005 blog entry, a coworker invited me to spend Christmas with her and her family. Her parents live in a small village in the Sauerland, a lovely but remote rural region noted for hills, forests, and not much else. (It kind of reminded me of the Oberlausitz, but without the Neo-Nazis.)

And so I spent a major holiday with somebody else’s family, none of whom I’d ever met before. It was weird. They were all very nice and did their best to make me feel included, but I was homesick anyway. I suppose that’s to be expected. I had a nice time, but it didn’t really feel like Christmas.

German Christmas is fairly different from Christmas in the United States. For one thing, the big event is the evening of the 24th. In German it’s called Heiliger Abend, “holy evening.” The 25th is just an afterthought used for overeating with the friends and relatives you didn’t see on the actual Big Day (or Big Evening, rather). The 26th, which is also a legal holiday, is a replay of the 25th.

Germans are astounded when they hear that Americans do not have a “second day of Christmas.”* Also when they find out that many stores and restaurants are open on Christmas Day itself. Over here, everything shuts down. By law. This leads to a lot of panic-buying just before the holidays (if you’re planning to prepare three or four large meals for guests over the next several days and no stores will be open, it’s vital to make sure you don’t run out of food), as well as increased holiday stress. But the Germans are used to this stress, and my theory is that they secretly enjoy it.

Anyhow, as I was saying before I distracted myself, the most important part of a German Christmas is the evening of the 24th. This is when people come over for dinner. A very LARGE dinner, on the same scale you see in the US, but of course the food is different. No turkey with stuffing here! Instead, the family I stayed with had three kinds of meat (venison, pork, and beef), and, thankfully for me, plenty of vegetarian side dishes as well: red cabbage, potato dumplings, potato croquets, mushrooms and leeks in cream sauce, a salad, a soup, two kinds of bread, pears stuffed with lingonberry sauce, and tiramisu. I have no idea whether any of this is traditional, but in any case, it what was on the menu. I ate way too much (duh). Shortly after midnight my digestive tract repaid me for my misdeeds with violent cramping.

German families also open their presents on Christmas Eve. With my hosts, this was more low-key than a typical American celebration. I suppose people are probably more extravagant with their kids, but everyone present at the celebration I attended was an adult, and the gifts were more like tokens: some scented soap, a candle, a bottle of fancy lotion. The kinds of gifts that American PTA moms give elementary school secretaries. (Believe me, I know: my mother is an elementary school secretary!) Even I was not forgotten. Somebody gave me a white hand towel with pandas on it. Their taste was questionable, but since I’d never met them before and I’m always short of towels, I was not about to look a gift horse in the mouth.

Maybe part of the reason that Christmas presents are less important in Germany is that the kids, at least, have already opened some presents on St. Nicholas Day. Like the Dutch, German kids leave their schools next to the radiator and wake up to find them filled with goodies. (Interesting trivia tidbit: while Germans celebrate St. Nicholas Day on December 6th, he visits the Netherlands on the 5th. I wonder where he goes on the 7th. Possibly Luxembourg?)

In terms of Christmas decorations, Germans are more traditional, and less, well, garish, than North Americans. Many still put real candles on their trees, and blinking colored lights are considered absolutely tasteless. Germans make a lot of use of greenery. They’re big on wreaths and evergreen bows and such. Inflatable plastic snowmen and glow-in-the-dark creches are definite no-nos. They don’t hang stockings, either, but that’s just because the stocking custom originated in Britain, not on the Continent.

Like Americans (who actually borrowed the idea from the Dutch, with considerable modifications), the Germans do indeed have a Santa Claus. He is called the Weihnachtsmann (Weihnachten is the German word for Christmas). Traditionally the Weihnachtsmann dressed in green, but today you’re more likely to see him wearing the red costume sponsored by the Coca-Cola Company. He makes his rounds on Christmas Eve, when the kids are still awake. Generally some family member dresses up as the Weihnachtsmann and threatens the kids with a wooden switch before actually handing out their presents.

Unlike our Santa, the Weihnachtsmann is not assisted by elves. Instead, he has a number of slaves, all of whom are named “Ruprecht.” These Ruprechts look kind of like miniature Weihnachtsmänner, only really unattractive. The Weihnachtsmann is not married, either. Germans are sort of baffled by the idea of Mrs. Claus.

“But what does Santa’s wife do?” they ask.

“I don’t know. Not much, really. She wears a red dress and a lace cap and has white hair and glasses. I think she just stays at home, bakes cookies, and mends his suit.” It’s ridiculously sexist when you think about it, really. I suppose that someone invented her because it sounds horribly boring and lonely to live alone at the North Pole with nothing but flying reindeer and a bunch of elves for company. Or maybe the Victorians introduced a wife because they wanted to make it clear that Santa does not have some kind of deviant sex life.

Another thing that surprises Germans about American Christmas lore is that Santa has exactly nine reindeer (there were originally eight, but then a 1950s claymation film introduced Rudolph), and that all of them have names, and that every American school child can recite these names: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Donder, and Blixen.** And Rudolph, of course.

These are all of the Christmas-related cultural differences that I can think of at the moment. I’ve probably forgotten a few things. Feel free to mention them in the comments section.

*Note to Canadian readers: This is way off topic, but what, if anything, do you guys actually do on Boxing Day? I’ve always wondered.

**The names Donder and Blixen come from the Dutch words for thunder and lightning. :)


Blogger Lisa said...

Hm. I've always wondered that myself. Thought maybe it was some kind of sports holiday until a friend living in Australia said it involved shopping. She didn't say much past that so I'm still in the dark.

Hello, by the way. Love your blog. 99.9% of it is right on the money for this American expat.

11:58 AM  
Blogger Ada said...

Hi Lisa--

Thanks! I'm glad you like my blog.

Shopping, hmmm... If that's really all that's involved, then perhaps Americans have unofficial Boxing Day, since plenty of us go shopping on the day after Christmas, too. But I bet there's more to it than that, or at least there was originally.

Come on, Canadian readers! Please help us out here!

12:52 PM  
Blogger christina said...

Hi! What do Canadians (and Brits and Aussis and Kiwis) do on Boxing Day? Well, nothing, really but there is some tradition to it (that *doesn't* involve shopping!) There's a post about it in my December archives.

I always thought that the last two reindeer were called Donner and Blitzen, the German words for thunder and lightning but I just looked and it seems there are different variations. Interesting.

Sounds like you had a great Christmas. That meal wasn't really traditional for Christmas Eve (fondue and raclette seem to be pretty popular) but it sure sounded delicious!

2:52 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Your Weihnachten entry reminds me of Sedaris' story "Six to Ten Black Men."

12:26 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hey are you familiar with the dutch tradition of putting the wrapped presents into "surprises"? they are fashioned from almost anything, cardboard, felt, even paper, and they usually resemble something that reminds everyone of something (funny, for example) that happened involving the people included. there is usually also a poem included that might also involve a memory or it might just be a nice poem. anyway the whole thing is really creative. i will spare the rest of the details here. there is a whole process about drawing names and who goes next, etc. let me know if you have heard of this! by the way, do you know another kim? "kim" is not me. just wanted to let you know.

3:49 AM  
Blogger Ada said...

Hi everyone--

Christina-- Thanks for the Boxing Day explanation. Glad to know that I'm not missing out on much!

Kim-- Sedaris is probably a big influence on my writing. But I bet you already knew that!

Kimberly-- Yes, the other Kim is actually one of my two best friends!
And my Dutch teacher told us about the 'surprises' thing. We had a whole lesson on Dutch Christmas traditions.

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In my over 14 years of experience with German and Germany, I never realized there was no "Weihnachtsfrau" in the German tradition of the Weihnachtsmann. You learn something new every day. I just found your blog and am enjoying it.

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Anonymous Anonymous said...

hi i am 10 and i have a project on german i was wondering ''when is SYlvester?''......''When does Weihnachtzeit end?'' and ''When does der Weihnachtsmann come in Germany?'' thanku i need it by tonight if possible...cindy

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Blogger scbco said...

The term originates in Victorian era Britain, for the day after Christmas, when the rich would box up gifts and bring them to the poor. The Christmas carol Good King Wenceslas sings about giving gifts of flesh, wine, and pine logs to a poor man on St. Stephen's Day.

The term also refers to the fact that children traditionally opened their money-boxes on this day to access the money they had received over the Christmas period

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Anonymous Anonymous said...

HI, ada, im canadian :)
and the day before boxing day everything in canadian stores is wayy cheaper then on regular business day, everything is on sale for cheaper like 40% off, and then on boxing day everything is closed ...except for drugstores and grocerie stores. I've heard of some families having parties. My family just eats left over turkey dnner on boxing day if there is any left then we just go back to usuall as if it were any other day.

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